Passion and Fear on the Street

I've been inspired to write more times than I can remember over the past few weeks but haven't had the time to sit down and record my thoughts before they slipped away. Jet lag, cultural adjustments, a head cold and the accompanying cold medications, whatever. Now I need help and it's not the medicinal kind.

I love to walk. My husband and I both live in a part of our city where we are close enough to our jobs and necessities where we could probably do without a car with a little bit more planning. Walking is one of the reasons I love to travel and work overseas. "The road," or sidewalk or pedestrian pathway has proven to be the best pace for me to experience a city or countryside and reflect on what I see. I always find inspiration for my work while rhythmically taking one step at a time taking in the view.

My feet have pounded the pavement or the gravel without accompaniment for more than half the time over the past 20 years and I've never felt threatened or in danger until now. I have a certain amount of street cred and have always taken precautions in insure as safe an experience as possible. Something has changed. During the past two years I have been accosted twice. During September of 2004 I attributed my pocket being picked to an increase in unemployment and professional thieves in Paris. There were even French TV specials focusing on this around Christmas of 2004. Since that time I have taken even more precautions regarding my "papers," money, camera and such. Still, I have learned that this is not enough.

This past weekend I traveled to Barcelona with an Australian friend who has traveled alone much more than me. I have wanted to visit this city for more than twelve years but never thought it would be the best place to travel alone. My friend is older so she has had more time to explore but had never been to Spain. We both had money belts or secret compartments or whatever but it seems that this does no good when a thief is willing to be physically aggressive.

My friend and I were between the Musee Picasso and the Cathedral in the Gothic Quarter around 8:30 this past Saturday night. We were looking for a cab since it had been a long day of rain and bitter cold. (unusual for Barcelona, we were told) Someone came up behind me and reached down and grabbed my day pack which was hidden by a bag of books and wrapped around my wrist. I resisted. I pulled. I screamed LOUDLY. He pushed me into a motorcycle that was parked on the sidewalk. I was wearing a leather coat that looks like it was run over by a motorcycle already so I wasn't hurt. Not badly. A little sore. A little traumatized. Ok, pretty traumatized!

I jumped up and ran after him NO HESITATION. I SCREAMED "STOP HIM!!!! YOU *&^% MOTHER *&^#$&! STOP! I ran more. I Screamed more. Then I worried about my friend who I had left on the street. So I stopped. Now I know my response. I always wondered what I would do if someone accosted me. He got away of course. No one tried to stop him. He ran through crowds of people. We reported it. My friend looked him right in the eye and is a figurative painter. She could draw him. She looked at books of photos of criminal faces. (Spanish men are beautiful but that makes them even scarier when they are confirmed criminials.)

Now I continue to relive this experience. Its made me pretty jumpy on the street and more than anything made me wonder if I am at an age that regardless of what I wear I am considered a potiential target. (I am in my mid 40's) I love to walk at night and I always stay in areas that are well lit and have people out and about. I think nothing of walking for an hour and half late in the evening by myself along the Seine... from the Palais de Tokyo to my atelier. There are people out and about of every age. It is the most beaitiful time to enjoy the monuments and architecture. It is a dilemna for me.

I fear I have been naive and lucky until now but all of that doesn't matter since I don't want to give up something I love (like walking) out of fear. I can't do it. On the other hand I know that two times is a warning that I need to do something more... take a self defense class? This is something I have always wanted to do. Carry mace? I used to carry it all the time until it became such a hassle at the airports...like they take it and ditch it... I wish I had mace in my hand when this creep attacked me - or a taser on the end of my umbrella - or something. Pain without permanent injury is my preference. Something he would remember for a long, long time.

I would appreciate any comments or suggestions travel savy folks can give me. I am travel savy. Ask any of my friends or students. BUT... I am not as young as I once was so now I think I need to do more. Savy is obviously not enough. Being careful is not enough. Staying home or taking cabs everywhere is unacceptable. Please share. Foil, since you've spent some significant time in Barcelona (which was STILL great and inspiring even with the rain and the cold and the crime!) The cop who recorded my story and list of stolen items was ADORABLE...what can I say? I am an artist and I appreciate beauty.